Le Huffington Post Fabrizio Bucella doctor of science and Professor at the free University of Brussels, sommelier
Under the sign of the vintage: Thibaud Clerget to Pommard
A few days before the start of the Grands Jours de Bourgogne 2016, a biennial event that allows professionals and journalists from all over the world to taste the whole of Burgundy in an appellation, this is an opportunity to highlight the young generation of winegrowers Beaune Coast. Meeting with Thibaud Clerget in Pommard.
Shortly after leaving Beaune in Renault Master, a police barrier forces the vehicle to stop. When our driver explains to them that he is in the company of professional relations, the policemen, in finesse, suggest to him to leave the vehicle in order to ask the questions of use. A few minutes later, we went back to Pommard. Direction to the domain Y. Clerget, which Thibaud, of the same name, has just picked up.
“My father stopped vinification in 2010 and was selling to another estate.” The Y. Clerget estate is not a new area. “The property has been in our family since 1268, at the time of the Crusades. I am the 28th generation. “Such an ancestry poses its man and increases the burden of responsibility. At just twenty-five years old, Thibaud is not entitled to error and does not intend to commit it. His first vintage will be 2015. A (re) birth under the sign of the good star.
A piece of land that makes you dream
The estate extends on a little less than six hectares between Clos Vougeot and Meursault. The climates are magnificent, Pinot Noir develops all the elegance and finesse of Burgundy. The list of plots resounds like a melody: Volnay, Volnay Santenot, Volnay Premier Cru Les Caillerets, Volnay First Cru Carelle under the Chapel, Volnay Premier Cru Clos du Verseuil, Grand Cru Clos de Vougeot and, my favorite, Pommard Premier Cru Les Rugiens-Hauts. In addition, some works of Meursault (white) are vinified.
“Of course the pressure is there, we must not crash.” The approach is methodical, precise. We taste all the cuvées on piece (barrel of Burgundy of 229 liters), the result is bluffant. Each one is distinguished by a personality, the use of wood seems so well-honed that it is hard to believe that this is the first vintage vinified by the young winemaker. ” The 2015 is magnificent: there is matter and finesse which allows to absorb the barrel well. The fruit is very present. “Thibaud is supported by the laboratory of Burgondia Oenology of the talented Kyriakos Kynigopoulos. ” My internship with Charles Van Canneyt at the Hudelot-Noëlla estate also taught me a lot of things, ” he says.
The young man is sure of his road, modest in his approach, ambitious in his objectives. “After the harvest, I got injured while doing sport. I did not sleep enough. ” Race results: broken collarbone and here he is working two months with an atle. “I’ll have some things to tell my kids,” he smiled.
When I question him about his ambition, his secret star, he answers me with this Burgundian good sense that has always fascinated the Latin that I am: ” My wish is to become an area to which one moves to taste. ” C I was reminded of this remark made by Grégoire Guidot, the owner of 21 Boulevard in Beaune, who knows Thibaud from the banks of the Viti (Lycée Vinicole de Beaune) where they both studied: Thibaud? A great future. You will see, in a few years we will line up for his wines. ‘